The Rollins grow two hectares worth of Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge from various parcels of 30-to-45-year-old Pinot Noir in Pernand and Echevronne. Always a sleek yet charming wine of immense energy, its fruit is crunchy and snappy rather than thick and juicy, underlining the deep mineral streak that runs through all of Rollin’s red wines.